Muzzle Brake or Flash Hider?

Few topics are brought up as much as what kind of muzzle device to install on a rifle. With the advent of products such as quick disconnect suppressors and mounts, companies like SilencerCo have come up with new and creative ideas for utilizing a pre-installed muzzle device as a platform for mounting suppressors to different host weapons.

In this article, we’re going to take a function-based look at a flash hider and muzzle brake in order to help you determine which one to choose. Specifically, we will be talking about SilencerCo’s ASR (active spring retention) flash hider and muzzle brake, which are used primarily on the new Hybrid, Omega and Specwar series of suppressors. Regardless of the make, the muzzle devices perform important tasks. Both devices secure and align the suppressor to the host weapon, but the other tasks are very distinct to each muzzle device.

When viewing the ASR flash hider and muzzle brake side by side, there is one distinct feature that stands out on each: prongs on a flash hider vs. ports on a muzzle brake.

ASR flash hiders have prongs with corresponding openings/slits between them. These prongs extend from the top of the thread base to the end of the device. The prongs are designed to reduce and distort the flame or flash signature that is generated by unburned powder burning outside the bore after each shot. ASR flash hiders also work to cancel out the ‘tuning fork’ ring effect with the three varying length prongs.

ASR muzzle brakes have ports that are milled into the sides of the brake above the thread base and below the ‘cap’ or end of the device. The ports are designed to vent expanding gasses to the left and right sides of the muzzle in order to reduce recoil energy and stabilize the muzzle.

A flash hider is ideal in situations calling for visually discreet shooting. Combat operations, police stand-offs, and low-light shooting are just a few examples of instances when a reduced flash signature is desired. Since flash hiders tend to bend and distort the shape of the fireball as it exits the barrel, the exact center of the flash is hard to determine if looking head-on at the shooter. Additionally, the reduction of visual signature will prevent the shooter’s vision from rapidly adjusting to a flash of light, which will help him/her to maintain vision in a low or no-light environment. These attributes give the shooter a tactical advantage in low-light situations.

Alternatively, a muzzle brake is ideal in situations where reduction in recoil is preferred and rapid follow up shots are necessary/desired. For suppressed shooting, a muzzle brake may act as a sacrificial baffle. Extremely short barrels and abusive rates of fire may lead to premature wear of the blast baffle in the suppressor. If a muzzle brake is used, it can take a small amount of that abuse away from the blast baffle; however, with a quality, modern suppressor, this may be a negligible amount and should not be considered a determining factor for most users.

Mounting the flash hider or muzzle brake is relatively easy and requires a only a small amount of mechanical know-how. When securing the barrel, it is recommended to use a reaction rod, barrel vice, or other applicable block to prevent damage to the firearm. The first step is to remove any stock muzzle device, shims, crush washers, or other devices on the threads, and then thoroughly clean the area. It is extremely important that crush washers (commonly found on AR type firearms) are discarded as they should not be used with suppressors.

For flash hider installation, simply thread on the flash hider to the recommended amount of torque. While 25-30 ft-lb is fairly common, make sure to check the manufacturer recommendation. Most flash hiders do not require timing; however, SureFire and Gemtech do recommend it. For those two brands, flash hiders are installed in the same fashion as muzzle brakes.

For muzzle brake installation, you will need the included shim kit or peel washer to properly ‘time’ the brake. Timing the brake requires a little more work, but it is still relatively simple. We recommend the following order of operations to speed up mounting time and reduce your frustration level.

1) Thread the brake onto the muzzle until it stops at the shoulder.

2) Step back and look at the orientation of the lateral ports. They need to be indexed at the 9 o’clock and 3 o’clock positions.

3) Unthread the brake until the ports are aligned correctly.

4) Using a shim kit, place the outer edge of some of the shims in the space behind the brake’s base and the thread shoulder. This will generally give either the correct shim combination or a good approximation.

5) Completely remove the brake, place the shims onto the threads, and re-install the brake.

6) If shimmed correctly, the brake will be hand tight and usually need 5-10 degrees more rotation. From here, you should be able to use the recommended amount of torque to get it back to that level orientation. This process may take some trial and error to achieve both the proper amount of torque and correct timing of the brake.

The proper amount of torque should be sufficient to prevent the muzzle device from backing off; however, a small amount of Rocksett can be used to enhance security. When using Rocksett or other thread locking compounds, be sure to only use a small amount. Using incorrect thread locking compounds (such as red Loctite) or excess amounts can lead to problems if the muzzle device is removed in the future.

If you are undecided about which muzzle device to use, we typically suggest a flash hider. Most flash hiders are easier to install than muzzle brakes, and with a suppressor attached, you won’t notice a difference between the two. Both devices will behave the same in terms of recoil reduction, flash reduction, and decibel reduction with a suppressor mounted.